Esshitha Guna: Every Design at Andal Connects to a Bigger Picture

Esshitha Guna, founder and creative director of Andal Gems & Jewels, has swiftly emerged as a force in fine jewelry at just 23. Hailing from a lineage of esteemed jewelers in Hyderabad, her journey from law to becoming a graduate gemologist at the Gemological Institute of America in New York underscores her expertise in gemstones and diamonds. Andal Gems & Jewels blends heritage with innovation, with each piece reflecting unique stories and personalities. Recent highlights include designing rings for celebrities like Aditi Rao Hydari and Siddharth, showcasing elegance, romance, and personal narratives.

Excerpts:
What initially inspired you to pursue jewelry design?
Jewelry design was as unplanned as the idea of running a luxury brand. As Andal came to be, my curiosity and urge to delve into each subject in the world of jewelry grew. It was during this process that I realized jewelry design was innate to me! I had the ease and desire to bring certain ideas to life in very specific ways.

Where do you draw inspiration from for your designs?
There’s no one place. The concept has always been to let the ideas flow. Some come from years of observations and notes, while others are sudden bursts of thoughts that occur during work, commute, or even leisure. One never stops thinking or creating. For me, the beauty of it is that every design at Andal, when looked at in retrospect, connects dots to a bigger picture.

How would you describe the style and philosophy of your jewelry brand? And what sets your jewelry apart from others in the market?
The designs at Andal come with a story. Our philosophy has been to simply have a wonderful time wearing jewelry of excellent craftsmanship. For the women and men of today who juggle life beautifully, their adornments too must have the character and quality of a masterpiece. Our craftsmanship is the finest in India, which is to say, the world’s hub of karigars. Our diamonds are reputed by the house of diamond mastery, Gunaas. Our gemstones are backed by gemologists to ensure high standards. Most importantly, the passionate individuals behind the process tie it all together!

What has been the biggest challenge you’ve faced as a young woman in the jewelry industry?
I think with time, everyone senior in the industry warms up to you. It took a few projects to settle in, but I’ve been fortunate to work with some key players in the diamond and gemstone market at a young age. Working under my father’s guidance before starting Andal was definitely a masterclass that prepared me to step into the industry.

Share a moment or project that you consider a significant achievement in your career so far?
All projects have been significant to me, as we’re talking about purchases where the client trusts you and your process. However, if there was one category that left a lasting impact on me, it’s engagement and proposal rings. It’s more than jewelry; it’s a moment of finding your art and love for love stories. There’s a sweet feeling during each step of the process, and this one has many steps. Definitely a special one.

Do you use any specific materials or techniques to ensure your jewelry is environmentally friendly?
One way to look at it is that it’s all nature’s produce. The diamonds and gemstones we use are natural.

How do you balance the creative and business aspects of running a jewelry brand?
This is where my childhood habit of organizing comes in handy. I think I got it from my mother, but I am big on keeping my things segregated and clean as much as possible. The same applies at Andal. I aim to keep dedicated days to work on business activities such as bills, accounts, and so on. Whereas, the creative side never really has a switch-off button; that’s always active.

What advice would you give to other young women looking to enter the jewelry design industry?
It’s too soon for me to answer this definitively! However, one piece of advice could be to keep on working on ideas. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn’t, and the most amazing time is pulling it off from the learning from the above two!